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Bottom Bouncing for Walleye: Advanced Strategies for Serious Anglers
Nick Harrington is a seasoned walleye angler, educator, and outdoor communicator based in Pierre, South Dakota. He holds a bachelor’s degree in Wildlife and Fisheries Sciences from South Dakota State University and brings firsthand expertise from fishing the legendary Missouri River reservoirs, including Lake Sharpe and Lake Oahe.
As the owner of Lip Ripper Fishing and a respected Mack’s Lure Pro Staff member, Nick is known for his science-based approach, clear instructional style, and ability to simplify advanced techniques for all skill levels. Whether teaching through videos, articles, or seminars, Nick’s depth of regional knowledge and experience has made him a trusted voice for anglers seeking to master walleye strategies and bottom bouncing methods.
Mastering the Next Level of Bottom Bouncing for Walleye Success
Bottom bouncing is a staple of my walleye fishing arsenal—for good reason. Whether I’m on the sprawling flats of Lake Sharpe, off a windy point at Eagle Lake, or working deep breaks on Lake Oahe, this method puts my bait in front of fish in a way that’s efficient, adaptable, and deadly effective.
You may know me from previous Mack’s Lure videos and articles, and if you caught one of my recent “Tackle Tip” video, you’ve heard me break down every part of my rig. But let’s take that foundation further and explore the advanced concepts that will elevate your bottom bouncing game to even greater success.
Foundation Matters: Rods, Reels, and Rigs
Before we get fancy, let’s recap the basics. Bottom bouncing demands both backbone and feel. For most of my setups, I reach for a JB Designs Walleye Series bottom bouncing rod—medium, moderate-fast action, at least 7 feet 6 inches long. In deep water or for my back rods, I’ll use a stiffer Fenwick HMG, always favoring backbone for working heavier bouncers and detecting subtle strikes.
My reel of choice is a smooth baitcaster, spooled with 10-pound Berkley FireLine braid as my mainline. The no-stretch quality transfers every bottom tick and bite right to my hand, and the line’s durability means I can work through all kinds of structure.
To finish the connection, I use a 12-pound Berkley Trilene XT mono leader. Mono offers just enough stretch to absorb surges from big walleye or pike and provides forgiveness when bouncing near snags. I tie most of my rigs myself, adding a string of Mack's Lure Beads and either a Colorado blade (size 3 or 4 for aggressive fishing) or a Mack's Smile Blade (0.8-inch for finesse), paired with a size 1 Aberdeen style hook. This combination lets me tailor my approach to suit any water or fish mood.
Spreading Out: Weight and Presentation
You’ve got the gear, but presentation is everything. I run 1.5-ounce bouncers out front and heavier 3-ounce bouncers in the back. The heavier weights keep those rods tight under the boat, while lighter weights require more line, naturally spreading them farther forward and away. With four rods out, I stagger weights—3 ounces in the back, 2 in the middle, 1.5 out front. This simple spread prevents tangling, maximizes coverage, and keeps my bait on target.
Boat control matters just as much as weight. Whether I’m backtrolling from the stern or pulling forward with a bow-mount, I use direction and current to control my speed and keep my bounce consistent over the bottom. On windy days, I’ll often run a drift sock out the bow, as Mason Propst recommends, to slow my pass and maintain tight line angles. Depending on depth, current, and fish location, I adjust weights and presentation on the fly. It’s all about being flexible—adapting your spread so each rig hits fish-holding water with minimal fuss.
Advanced Concepts: Speed and Boat Control
Speed is the secret ingredient in advanced bottom bouncing. The right speed presents your bait naturally and keeps it in contact with the bottom without dragging. In cold or neutral conditions—or when fish are pressured—I slow down to as little as 0.3 to 0.5 mph. That’s when I rely on Smile Blades, which spin at a crawl and maintain subtle action. In summer, or when fish are active, I’m not afraid to hit 1.0 to 1.5 mph, switching to Colorado blades that provide flash and vibration.
Factors like current, wind, trolling direction, and water type (reservoir, river, or lake) affect not just your boat speed, but your bait speed. “Too many anglers get hung up on what their graph says about speed and don’t consider how their bait is actually presenting,” I’ve learned from years on the Missouri River. In strong current, especially up-reservoir in fall, I may need to run as fast as 2.0 to 2.4 mph to get those Colorado blades spinning just right. Always watch your rod tip—the way it pulses or vibrates tells you whether your bait is bouncing, spinning, and behaving naturally.
Boat control is what separates good fishing days from great ones. I use electronics and mapping to follow contour lines, structure edges, and mark waypoints. I like to run S-patterns or accordion spreads across points, flats, and transitions, covering multiple depths while keeping my presentation precise. Pay attention to boat drift, wind, and how your bouncers contact the bottom. Small anchor adjustments or subtle motor bumps can keep all your rigs bouncing properly—in contact, but not dragging.
Triggering Mechanisms: How to Make Fish Strike
Covering water and staying on fish is just half the battle. Triggering strikes takes finesse, experience, and real-time adaptation. Here’s what works best for me:
- Lift-Drop Technique: Periodically pulse and lift your rod tip, then drop the bait back down. This mimics erratic prey and can provoke aggressive walleyes over humps and rocks.
- Blade and Bead Selection: I match colors to water clarity and fish mood. On clear, sunny days, metallics or naturals work best. In turbid or windy conditions, switch to bright colors and blades that thump harder. Don’t be afraid to mix it up—if the bite fades, change blades or bead combos until you see results.
- Leader Tweaks and Hook Choices: Clear water or pressured fish call for longer, more subtle leaders. In stained water or when fish are biting aggressively, go short and bold. I switch between crawler harnesses, Slow Death hooks, and plastics to keep my presentation fresh and effective.
- Contour Changes: Use transitions in boat direction or bottom composition as triggers. When crossing from rock to sand or hitting a drop-off, I’ll often increase speed or lift the bait to provoke a reaction strike.
Once I find a pod of fish using these advanced tactics, I don’t leave. That “spot within a spot” is where bite windows often open wide. Fish aren’t everywhere—the ones you catch reveal where to concentrate your efforts.
The Decision: When to Troll, When to Bounce
Let’s talk about pacing your day. When I’m searching for scattered fish or working new water, I’ll often start with crankbaits at higher speeds—around 2.5 mph—to cover ground quickly. Once I mark or catch several fish in a concentrated area (or see them stacked on electronics), I switch to precise bottom bouncing, running at 1.2 to 1.4 mph to comb through those pockets and dissect prime structure.
This decision is crucial for maximizing your time on the water. If fish are scattered, keep trolling and marking spots. If you hit a pocket, work it with bounce rigs until you’re confident you’ve pulled every willing walleye. In spring, you might switch to pitching jigs in tight areas, but as summer progresses, bouncing is often the most efficient way to work over a juicy zone.
Boat and Spread Efficiency—Expert Insights
Efficiency is everything. “The common denominator of the best anglers is always efficiency,” I said recently. The best days happen when every rod, line, and bait is working with purpose. Watching your spread and actively managing weights, blade choices, and line angles makes a world of difference. It’s not just about having the right tackle—it’s about using it smartly and adapting every pass.
Don’t waste time running all over big water. Mark several waypoints, work through key spots, and let subtle adjustments guide your next move. A good bottom bouncer is a versatile tool—adjust the weight, blade, and pace to match location, conditions, and fish mood, and you’ll catch more fish while covering more water.
Final Thoughts and Confidence
Bottom bouncing thrives on attention to detail. You must know your gear, your spread, and every trigger available. From a tackle tip on rods and reels to the advanced nuances of boat control and strike-triggering techniques, it’s a method that rewards anglers who continue to learn.
Experiment with blades, beads, leaders, and speeds. Cover water efficiently, and let your electronics, rod tips, and bites tell you what’s working.
Trust your instincts, stay curious, and never stop adapting. With the right pace and a willingness to mix things up, bottom bouncing will keep you netting walleyes season after season.